Hue and Hoi An - Part 1

Hue and Hoi An
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Hue and Hoi An are smaller Vietnamese cities, lying closer to the center of the country. Though they are only maybe 50-60 miles apart, they are almost two different worlds.
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Hue is the old imperial city, where the last kings of Vietnam lived. In the early-1800’s, the king of Vietnam moved the capital of the country from Hanoi to Hue, to a more central geography for better control of the entire country and to be farther away from the threat of Chinese invasion. The past still looms large in Hue, and most of the tourist sites relate to the king. We toured the remains of the imperial palace and stood on the top of the wall where the king would address all of the people. We also toured the tomb of Ming Mang – considered one of the fairest and best of the Vietnamese kings. It’s not a tomb in the way we think as Americans; rather, it is a beautiful acreage, with ornate gardens and several buildings all surrounded by a high stone wall. King Ming Mang was said to have had 500 wives and 142 children (at least, though with 500 wives, how could you really keep track!). When he died, all of his wives and children moved to the tomb site to live out the rest of their lives. Although one of his sons became the new king, keeping all the jealous brothers, sisters, and mothers nearby evidently was not an option!
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Hue is also linked to the past in another strong way. It is the closest significantly-sized city to the heart of the fighting of the Vietnam War. We took a boat ride a couple of miles up the river from Hue, and we were only maybe 20 miles from the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) and could still see remnants of the Ho Chi Minh Trail on the mountain in front of us. There are reminders of the war all around Hue – concrete bunkers, old military bunkhouses, and lots of stories of the war. It’s amazing how close we were to it all – only 15-20 miles from Quan Tri, maybe 50 miles from the border to Laos. Our guide was 8 years old when Saigon fell, and he remembers much about the war. Hue was strongly sympathetic to the South and very allied to the American forces there, so life was hard for them after the war ended. Although the area seems to have a good future with lots of industry and manufacturing building nearby and promising tourism with the Imperial and military sites, the past will always be near in Hue.
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The Hue festival was going on while we were in town. The city was at its prettiest, with silk lotus flowers and lanterns hung in all the trees. Hue is cut in half by the Perfume River, and the heart of town lies along its banks. There were huge silk lotus flowers (bigger than a boat) floating in the river that lit up at night. The bridges across the river were all lit up as well – really enchanting, especially looking down from our 12th floor hotel room. The festival was a week of music and dance troupes from around the world. There were also boat races during the day, where teams of paddlers (think crew in a Vietnamese bamboo boat!) would race on the river. Each village could submit one team to race, and the winners received $500 U.S. and a pig! There were lots of people sitting on the shore watching the races when we took our boat tour up the Perfume River.
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Hoi An is next!